Condiments
Rhubarb jam: the recipe that does not stay runny
Rhubarb is full of water and acid, but has almost no pectin: that is why the jam stays runny. The solution is not a gelling agent; it is cold maceration the night before, which draws out water by osmosis and shortens cooking, plus a grated tart apple. The result is thick, tangy and still pink.

Method
- Wash the stalks, remove leaves and the red base, and cut the rhubarb into 1-1.5 cm pieces. Do not cut it smaller: it would fall apart completely.
- The evening before, mix the rhubarb with the sugar in a large bowl, pour in the lemon juice, cover and leave to macerate for 8-12 hours in the refrigerator. In the morning you will find a pink syrup at the bottom and translucent pieces.
- Strain the syrup into a wide, shallow stainless steel or enamelled cast-iron pot, never aluminium or copper. Set the drained rhubarb aside.
- Bring the syrup to a boil and reduce it for 8-10 minutes over high heat, until it becomes visibly thicker.
- In the meantime, sterilise the jars: boil them for 10 minutes or keep them in the oven at 120 °C for 15 minutes. Always use new lids.
- Add the rhubarb and the grated apple (or the tea bag) to the syrup. If you want a deeper red, add the red currants or strawberries now. Cook for 12-18 minutes over high heat, stirring often and skimming.
- Remove the bag and do the cold saucer test: spoon half a teaspoon of jam onto a saucer kept in the freezer, put it back in the freezer for a minute and run a finger through it. If the surface wrinkles and the groove does not close up, it is ready; if it runs like syrup, cook for another 5 minutes and try again with a fresh saucer.
- Turn off the heat immediately and fill the jars while still hot, up to half a centimetre from the rim. Wipe the rim well, close and leave to cool upright.
- Let cool completely, then check each lid: it must be concave and not click. Write the date on the lid and store in the dark.

